Teaching with Play

Repetitive behaviour becomes learnt behaviour. If you have a dog who gets excited, runs around like crazy, jumps up and won't listen, chances are it learned to be this way because you accidentally encouraged it. When dogs are puppies, it's really cute when they jump up and act goofy. Unfortunately, petting a dog or playing rough with it when it jumps up or mouths and allowing it the freedom to run around in an excited state, encourages the dog to continue these bad habits. When teaching dogs appropriate conduct, you must interrupt all unwanted rough play. When deciding how you let your pet to interact, consider how you would ideally like it to behave, since the behaviour it repeats, will become the foundation of its behaviour in the future. Anytime your dog, or puppy instigates rough or inappropriate play, this is an opportunity to interrupt and redirect its energy. You can seize this opportunity to set up the rules for appropriate access to play and freedom. When the dog offers a desirable behaviour, then you can reward it with either a treat, a toy, play or praise. I also give praise for any and all appropriate behaviour, so that it becomes repetitive and learnt!

Dogs learn through trial and error. Puppies learn what works and what doesn't, most of this they learn through play. Of course you want your puppy to experience life and to enjoy itself. Nevertheless, when teaching using play, there has to be rules. Rule number one, only calm or positively focused behaviour earns access to praise, play, toys and treats. Secondly, you the human has ultimate power over these resources. For instance, the dog must relinquish the toy or cease the game on command. If you like to play games like tug or wrestle with your dog, be very sure that you are the one controlling the game. When you say the game is over, the dog must respect that. When you ask it to OUT or DROP the toy, it must do so. A great positive way to establish this is indicate the game of tug or play is over, (either by putting the toy away or with holding it and all contact until the dog settles down) then resume as soon as the offers calm or focus behaviour. Furthermore, I recommend only engaging the dog in a game as long as it is relatively interested, then the game holds value and the dog considers it a reward. You don't have to play with your dog until it is completely exhausted. If the game is over when the dog is tired of it, this only teaches the dog that it is in control of the game. It is good to encourage play, then ask for a sit or a lay down to re-acivate the play again. In doing this you have established that you are the source of fun and learning.

It is also beneficial to incorporate some play time into all training exercises. Making it fun for your dog, will make it fun for you and you are likely to practice and train more regularly, as well as engage your dog for longer periods of time. If you have a fully grown dog, possibly even a rescued dog, it is never too late to establish new rules. You may not even be the person responsible for re-inforcing the bad behaviour it has learned, but you are responsible for the way it learns from here on in. If you interrupt all unwanted behaviour, ceasing play anytime the dog gets too rough or isn't listening, then resume as soon as it demonstrates good manners and calm energy, you can turn a dog around! I can't emphasize enough rewarding ALL calm positively focussed energy with praise, play, toys or treats. Then the dog will more likely offer this type energy in the future. If you praise and treat for all wanted behaviours they will become default behaviours. You can teach even an old dog new tricks!

Attention Games

In order to teach any new behaviour, you must first have the student's attention. Trying to teach your dog something new while it is sniffing or pulling on the leash is kind of like teaching your kid something while he is playing a video game. People just can't focus properly on two things at one time and neither can dogs! Focus is something that can be trained. Some dogs are able to do it easier than others, but all dogs can improve their focus with training and exercise. Exercising focus includes exercise and it is often hard work. However, the work will pay off ten fold and if you make it fun for the dog, it will also be fun for you!

The amount of work you will have to put into getting your dog's attention depends on the individual. It also depends on how long you have allowed your dog to develop crazy making skills. For dogs who have been allowed to repetitively run wild or jump up, getting them to engage with you can be more challenging. However, the work you will put into training will be far less than the work you would put into simply surviving the crazy makings of an untrained pet. Also, some dogs have naturally higher energy levels than others and will take longer to settle down enough to give focus. However, hyper dogs are sometimes the most highly motivated ones. For instance, look at Boarder Collies, one of the most crazy energetic dogs out there, but they are often the most well trained and most successful purebred show dogs. Dogs like this need a lot of exercise and a job to do...like agility or herding. Dogs have been bred to have specific characteristics and to do specific jobs. Some of these characteristics translate better to pet dogs than others. Regardless of the bred or the mix bred dog you have, you can use it's natural bred instincts as well as some conditioned responses to build up focus and engage your dog.

Engagement begins at home, where there are few or little distractions. I like to reward all good behaviour and interrupt all bad behaviour. If you do not let your dog repeat the things you don't want it to do, you'll have done half the work. Interrupting fido accomplishes two things: when your dog does something you don't like and you interrupt him, that will put an end to the thing you don't like....but it will also get his attention! I recommend taking the dogs collar and saying something like "uh-uh!" or "enough!", then leading it away from the bad it is doing and asking for a sit or some acceptable behaviour...then giving praise for that new action. Dogs are physical and physically guiding it sometimes works faster than using words. Dogs don't speak English and yelling at them has no meaning. Dogs bark at each other all the time! If using a verbal interrupter like "uh-uh!" is preferred, you must condition the word to have meaning by physically enforcing it. This doesn't mean hurt or hit the dog, just get it to stop what it is doing and say "uh-uh!" and ask for a "sit" or a "look". Also, to strengthen all offered behaviours be sure to praise your dog every time it looks at you or offers calm or focussed attention to you. This does not include jumping up or begging, but any time your dog looks at you or comes to you, reward him with a pet or a "good-boy!" Anytime your dog is acting in the fashion or state you like, reward him and he'll be more likely to offer this behaviour in the future.

To train a LOOK:

Take your dog to a quiet room, one that is free of distractions. Make a fun noise or say his name. As his eyes look into yours tell him what he is doing is good by saying “yes” in a happy tone. Then give him a treat. In order to get the treat he has to look away, so be sure and praise him while he is looking at you. Don't praise after he looks away. Be patient, repeat this and eventually he will start offering looks at you. After a second of holding your gaze, praise and give your dog the treat.

Remember, wait until eye contact is made then verbal reward, followed by a treat, within a second or two. If your dog can do this with no problem, wait to verbally reward until he holds your gaze for a longer period of time, then follow with a treat. Soon you can start adding distractions, or practicing this outside, in busier environments. Every time you ask for longer "looks" or "looks" when distractions are present, expect some failures and just back up a few steps in training if needed. DO NOT get frustrated, this does not encourage learning, simply back up and praise him for something that is easier for him to achieve.

Practice on and off throughout the day at random times.

Get him to do it standing, sitting and lying down, in as many places as possible.

Keep the sessions short!

Note: try not to reward your dog for any signs of stress i.e. panting, whining, crying, pacing or trembling.

Now that you are able to get your dog's attention...it is time to take it outside or into the real world. It is a little more difficult to get and keep your dog's focus when you are around distractions, like other dogs. Nonetheless, just as you did in the home, interrupt all unwanted behaviour and reward all the good. Using treats and praise works for some dogs, others need toys or play to keep them focused on their owner. You need to find what motivates your dog to give you it's attention. Is it a ball, or is it chicken. When out in the real world you must come armed with a variety of treats. At home fido might work for kibble, but walking along a busy street with lots of smells, you might need to use a higher quality treat. Anytime your dog looks at you or come to you when called and especially if it comes to you without being asked, give it a big reward!!! Another thing that I like to tell clients, is when you are out walking your and training your dog, make sure you are focused too! I've seen people talking on their cell phones and not even noticing that their dog has gone poop on my lawn! At the dog park there is much worse, dogs running wild, while the owners chat away or text. When training your dog you need to be focussed too, so that you can read it's body language and notice when it is getting things right. You can only give rewards and engage your dog if you are paying attention as well. It is a win win situation, you put your focus on your dog and pretty soon, he'll be returning the favour!