Training the terrible two's...

As I get further into my studies as a dog trainer, I learn that there are many common threads between human development and canine stages of learning and behaviour. I often hear of people complaining that their previously sweet puppy, who is now a year and a half or nearly two is suddenly out of control and they need help. Recently, I began training a cute little mutt, a rescue from Mexico, named Sugar (above). She is adorable and smart, but very unruly. She reminds me of two year old child, discovering how to wrap adults around her little finger, or paw rather. Whether, the dog was brought home as a puppy, rescued as an adult dog, or just going through a stage, there will come a time when this cute little being will test you, its handler, to establish its boundaries. My advice to all dog owners who are struggling to get their dog under control is, ZERO TOLERANCE for any unwanted behaviour. Any repeated behaviour becomes learnt behaviour!

Many behavioral problems are in actuality training issues. With daily work, my dogs are getting progressively better behaved; nevertheless, some of their habits are unacceptable and seem to be chronic. Holly jumps up and pushes people over. She is a bully and barks at the neighbors. Miko, my boy dog, barks at everything, especially men. He also pushes past me and pulls on his lead. I have been working on improving their level of obedience and using positive training methods to reinforce their good behaviors. Unfortunately, even though they are improving and are more manageable; they are still misbehaving. The reason for this is that I have been unintentionally reinforcing their habits. Simply put, dogs only do things that work. They have a desired outcome, if achieved, the reward ensures they will perform the action again. The reason they continue to do these annoying things is because they bring about the desired results.

Regardless of your chosen training techniques, it is not effective to simply punish your dog for doing things you don't like! To decrease bad habits, you must give your dog the exact opposite of what it wants in order to make it clear that the action is not going to bring about the desired effect. Punishment, verbal and even physical, for some dogs is perceived as attention. For attention seekers like my Holly, the punishment becomes an enforcer! Squeaky noises, squealing and yelling at her makes her happy and reinforces the jumping. Pushing her down becomes a game. For Miko, his barking simply makes people go away. Even though he is often barking through the window and the passer-by is going by regardless; he perceives their retreat as a victory, which ensures he will do it again the next time. The same goes for pulling. Miko pulls me to get to the park faster and sure enough it does get us there! Even though I am correcting him the entire way, even treating him for heeling, he is reinforced by the fact that we get to the park because he has pulled me there. If I punish him by pulling back on the leash, it just amps him up!

To control unwanted behavior you must give the dog the opposite of what it wants. When Miko pulls, I turn around and walk him the other way. We don't move one inch toward the park until he heels nicely. If he barks through the window, he loses his privileges of looking out. I take away his ability to see the people move away. He values his freedom to look out the window and guard the house, so I made up a two bark rule. I take that freedom away from him, each and every time he barks (more than twice). When Holly jumps up for attention, she gets ignored and turned a back to. She must sit for any positive interactions. Jumping gets her nothing! Similarly, if she barks for attention or demands treats, she gets ignored or quietly put out of the room. This requires "Zero Tolerance" of bad behavior. I now do not allow her to pull on the leash either. She has a good heel, but lunges at other dogs. This results in me turning on my heels and walking the other way. She is aggressing over territory, barking, as well as lunging. This results in her losing access to that territory. What I had taken to be fear aggression may actually be a dominance issue. She wants to be top dog! Since aggressive displays now results in a loss of resources to her, the behavior has decreased.

Dogs are very simple creatures, in that they do what works! They learn like children, while we adults will bang our heads against a wall trying to fit a square peg into a round hole! Dogs will only try something a couple times without results. If it doesn't work, they will most likely move onto something that does. Figure out what is the most "basic" reason your dog is doing whatever it is you don't like and either make it impossible for the dog to continue that behavior, or give it the exact opposite outcome that it desires. This will aid in correcting them faster than verbal or physical punishment. (Technically, punishment is anything that decreases a behavior, but in this case I am referring to the familiar term of scolding or even physically dominating). In terms of reinforcing, I reward all good behavior too. Giving attention and / or resources (access to something), as well as praise and treats, will increase the good behavior while you are decreasing the bad. "Zero Tolerance" doesn't mean "punishment", it simply means consistency!

Recalls and Attention Games

Of course the structure of anything solid, comes from a strong foundation. It seems simple, but gets complicated...especially when you talk about dog training. We tend to look at trained behaviors as being separate and taught separately. However, when a dog lacks basic foundation behaviors, it is hard to teach it to do what we want it to do, like function calmly and properly in social situations. The most basic foundation behavior is one that people often fail to reinforce. We call our pets, or whistle to them and they come to us, or look at us in response. This is the most important tool that we can exercise with our pet, yet we often take it for granted. Every time your dog comes to you or looks toward you, it is a strengthening of the bond you share, a strengthening of the foundation of your relationship. Unfortunately, unintentionally people will sometimes poison this bond. If you interrupt your dog's (unwanted) behavior, perhaps calling the dog out of a potentially dangerous situation, then reprimand the dog for the event...this is poisoning the command. Humans expect dogs to understand what they are upset about; which is the outburst or the disobedience. However, the dog is probably connecting the reprimand to the action of coming when called. Because the dog often looks sheepish, we assume it understands and feels guilty about what it has done, but more than likely what we are perceiving is fear. The dog is actually coming to fear us and learning that it can't trust us as good leaders. Each time we punish a dog by calling it to get it to come, or to get it's attention and then reprimand it, we destroy the bond we have formed with it. We are in essence destroying the very foundation we strive to build.

Coming when called, or solid recall, is the most important foundation behavior that we as dog owners and handlers can work on. Most situations can be prevented or avoided by calling the animal out of it. A strong recall can save your dog's life! Most people that have problems controlling their dogs also have problems getting their dog to come. This reasons to say, that they might also have weak foundations on which they base the rest of their training. The way to begin properly training your dog is to first figure out how to get its attention. (I won't say undivided attention, because dogs will always have distractions that they find hard to resist). Nonetheless, at least knowing how to get your dog's attention will aid you in being able to keep its attention long enough and often enough to teach it the skills it needs to be a great companion and pet. All dogs have different distractions, drives and motivations. In the beginning you should practice all recalls without distractions and find out what is most likely to draw your dog to you. Is it food, is it toys that make squeaky noises, is it fun gestures or a game of chase? Dogs are simple...they will almost always give their attention and be drawn to the biggest distraction. The trick to teaching good recall is to make ourself as alluring as possible and practice it whenever possible. Often people call their dogs in a stern voice and expect them to obey. For the most part, they will come when called in this manner...unless there is something they like better or something distracting them that lures them away. We need to teach our dogs to choose us over their distractions. Through repetition and positive reinforcement the dog will learn to always choose you as the most interesting and consistent source of reward. Strong recall takes a lot of work, but it is the most important thing you can teach your dog.

The easiest attention getting exercise is rewarding any and all voluntary attention. If your dog looks at you, engage it, give it a treat or praise. If it comes up to you or returns it's attention to you...make a huge deal out of it. This is reinforcing good behavior. Sure it is not something that we commanded, but it is still an excellent foundation behavior that if gone unnoticed, will not strengthen. If you reward it, your dog will likely offer it more often and automatically. If your dog offers you its attention, then you will not have to worry about trying to get it! If you want your dog to come or do something other than what it is engaging in, you will already have done the ground work...with very little effort. In fact in this exercise the dog does most of the work for you. I think the reason this practice often goes unnoticed is because it is so simple it seems silly. Another reason people don't reward their dogs freely is that they don't want to spoil the dog or give it too much food. If you don't want your dog to gain weight from "excessive treating", then cut back on its daily meals. Eventually, you can find other things to give your dog as rewards. Food is simply something they relate to and instinctively strive to earn access to. If you don't want your dog to get spoilt, don't reward anything other than good behavior! If you want a dog that comes to you when called and is very interested in what you are doing or wanting it to do, make yourself the most delicious or interesting thing in the room or the situation. The easiest way to do this is through a reward system, treat training or praise. Getting a dogs attention is easy...make it fun! Ironically, making it fun for your pet, also makes it a lot more pleasant for you. Coming when called and recalls can be turned into attention games that are easy to do and will most likely lead to faster success for you and your dog.

Don't give up on defaults!

In order to build a strong stable nervous system you need to expose your dog to all sorts of experiences at a very young age, before four to six months old. Neither one of my dogs were socialized properly as puppies and as a result, are afraid of most things new or foreign. Exposing them to new situations is difficult and often unpredictable because of their lack of experience with common stimulus. Introducing a puppy to new things is fun, but introducing an anxious one and a half year old, or adult dog, to something new and exciting is not only difficult, but scary for both parties. I have done a lot of reading on desensitization and in the beginning of training Holly and Miko, I figured I would slowly and systematically expose my dogs to the things they were unfamiliar with, thus desensitizing them to their triggers. Little did I know that between the two of them, they are reactive to pretty much everything that moves and makes noise. On a daily basis they react to dogs, men, cats, birds, bikes, skateboards, motorcycles, trucks, lawn mowers, hair driers, vacuum cleaners and anything on wheels, including wheelchairs. Taking the two of them for a walk is hard work and I found it wasn't enjoyable for me. To turn things around I needed to work on a few basic foundation behaviors and bring some stability into our lives.

The behaviors that I now work on daily are COME, LOOK, TOUCH (or targeting) , DOWN, SIT, QUIET (or settle), as well as HEEL. I practice some of these commands in the house, looking out the window, in the back yard as people and dogs go by, as well as on our low stress walks. I can now walk both dogs, side by side, in a heel position, sitting on each corner in a controlled fashion. They don't pull me (very often) and walk on a loose leash (unless a dog or the mailman goes by). That might sound like an easy feat to some, but to owners of fear aggressive dogs, it can be a long road to enjoying a walk with "man's best friend". In fact, most people with fear aggressive dogs walk them at odd hours, when no distractions are present and a when they can avoid situations that leave them and their dogs rattled. I don't ever expect my dogs to be perfectly behaved or "off leash", but I do plan to enjoy the time I spend walking them. The foundation to successful rehabilitation of a fear aggressive dog is developing strong default behaviors, like the ones I have listed below, which can be taught through LOTS of repetition and LOTS of patience. Keep at them and DON"T GIVE UP on your dog!

COME: This is the most important command to work on. It can be used to pull a dog out of a dangerous situation. For fear aggressive dogs, a strong come default will save you much grief and could save you from unfortunate incidents, especially when you see something potentially scary and can avoid it by calling your dog to safety. I practice treating for COME every day so that when I need it, my dogs have an automatic and solid response to it and know it means good things to will follow.

LOOK: Most problems in training begin because the dog doesn't understand what the handler wants from it, or it is simply too distracted. The first step in communicating what you want from your dog is to get the dog's attention. Many times other distractions overshadow the handler's commands because the dog isn't paying attention to him or her. LOOK is an easy way to teach your dog to give you its focus. A strong look default will assure that you can get and keep your dog's attention when you most need it. Another form of "look" is name recognition. When you call your dog's name, you need it to look at you!

TOUCH: Teaching your dog to touch your hand or a target stick reliably, on command, is a good way to redirect it from a potentially reactive situation. Practice this command when there are no distractions and you can eventually use it to bridge many behaviors that will come in handy in the future. I use it to redirect my dogs after an outburst. I want to treat them for returning to calm behavior, but need something to separate the incident. By asking them to target my hand, it prevents me from accidentally reinforcing barking or lunging, because I need to treat them for ceasing the aggression and move on.

DOWN: As hard as it is to teach, an emergency down command can save your dog's life. It begins with practicing basic down commands in playtime, progressing to using a stern voice "DOWN" followed by praise and play. The point is to develop a strong and fast reaction to your voice...especially your panic voice. I do "downs" throughout the day in different tones of voice...even yelling it from a distance. It isn't abusive to bark a command at your dog in emergencies. They bark all the time! By practicing the word DOWN in a loud voice, you can be sure it will work when it really counts. (Don't give up on this one!)

SIT: If you can get your dog to sit, it can't jump or lung. (It is particularly useful for dogs who jump up). I use this for Holly when I position her facing away from her triggers. Sometimes I will go as far as holding her between my legs in a sit, so she can't look at the scary thing as it passes. It is always better to lure the dog away from the trigger, but in some cases, this is not possible and a strong sit will give me time to get my knees ready to block Holly from aggressing. I often put myself between the scary thing and the dog to physically block the reaction as well as visually block the stimulus.

QUIET: This is something I practice in the window of my living room for an hour or more a day. It can also be given as a "settle" or any word you prefer to use as a command. My dogs love to look out at the coming and goings of the neighbourhood. I keep a clicker handy and an ear cocked to ward off any window antics and to award any good behavior. I use the clicker as a marker for good quiet responses and as an interruptor of bad behavior (click and treat before they can start barking), as well as, as bridge to reward (to buy me a couple seconds of time to get the treat out). The trick is to award the calm quiet actions and redirect the barking into calm quiet behaviors, like sit or touch.

HEEL: Not to be confused with "walking on a loose leash"! My dogs must heel a block to earn a block of loose leash sniffing. It teaches them that they can have access to a good sniff, while working on a strong heel. The HEEL command is necessary in getting them through any social situation, be it walking down the sidewalk with men approaching, or allowing a cyclist to pass. This also allows me to walk calmly on the other side of the road, while a dog passes. Admittedly, I cross the street if I see a dog approaching (unless I am walking just one dog or the other). Together, two 65lb dogs can easily pull me off my feet. Miko wants to play and Holly wants to fight. I need a reliable heel to keep things under control.

ON and OFF game: Although this isn't a default exercise, it is a method of strengthening behaviors by adding distractions in a controlled way. I play with my dogs in the yard and get them really excited, (game ON) then ask them to quickly turn it OFF. I ask for a default behavior like sit, or down and make them settle down for treats. This is for practice in controlling their emotions and energy levels. By teaching them to turn their energy ON and OFF, I prepare them for settling down when they are over excited. It also allows me to figure out how quickly and under what circumstances I can expect them to settle down.

PRE-MACK Theory: This is a method of teaching more than a behavior. It works on the premise that you get your dog to perform a default in order to gain access to something or the freedom to do something. It is sometimes called the Grandmother Rule: "eat your veggies first!" I use it to strengthen desired behaviors by rewarding them with something the dogs really want, like sniffing when we are on a walk. In allowing the dogs a controlled amount of what they desire, it makes the desire to sniff less novel. They know that they will be allowed to sniff to their hearts content, as long as they heel for a block or even just as we cross a busy street. This can be applied to so many thing and is a great way to teach a default.

After months of training, unfortunately, Miko is still afraid of strange men and Holly is still afraid of other dogs. However, they are improving and learning to calm down on command. Instead of flooding them with their triggers while out and about (as I had done in the past with poor results). I now work on them at home and around my house without distractions, to build foundation behaviors which are incompatible with fear and aggression. I map out areas that are less stressful for the dogs. I keep the routes to low level exposures to their triggers. This way I can work on building up their threshold or tolerance to stimulus, rather than bulldozing through their fears in hopes of overcoming them. I concentrate on teaching them good behaviors and building the attention span, that they need to possess in order to feel more confident and calm in the face of perceived danger. I realized, not only had my dogs not been exposed to many types of things, people and stimulus, they had not been taught basic good manners and proper coping mechanisms. Before I could teach them to not react, I had to teach them what to do in place of reacting. I can't convince them not to be afraid of scary men and approaching dogs, but I can teach them to do something other than aggress.

There is more than one way to skin a cat!

When asked recently what I found most inspiring and surprising about learning to train dogs, I replied "the people!" The more I learn about dogs, the more I realize it is us, the owners, who need the training!

I've just started working with four dogs, all different breeds, with all different issues. (Above is Eva, a little Staffordshire Terrier who suffers from fear aggression and noise sensitivity) One thing that I have learnt from teaching is that there are many ways to treat issues and not all of them work for all dog handler teams. As I sit down with the perspective clients for the first time and ask them to tell me what their concerns and goals are in regard to their pets, I discover a lot and not just about the dogs. I learn what different expectations people have of their dog trainer, as well as their expectations of their pets. They provide me with a guideline of what they expect to get out of it and how much time, money and effort they are willing to invest. From this I can put together a plan for us to follow and a proposition for the training. During this consultation, I also get an insight into how the person communicates, which indicates the way they need to be taught. I can only teach the dog as much as I can teach the owner. Really the client is the student, not the dog.

Dog training is a service and must be customized to the client. Not all owners will be willing to put in the necessary hours required to fully obedience train a dog. It's hard work and requires time that many busy modern families and individuals don't have. They will however be able to make small changes to improve the communication between them and their pet, as well as teach their dog a few basics so that it can function within our society and enjoy a better quality of life. Many people just want a pet who is well behaved and good company. They don't realize that dogs are a lot of work and most need a lot of exercise and attention. This is common when clients acquire dogs that they like the look of and may know little about. What I have learned about pet dog training is that a client may actually want you to train the drive out of their dog. Drive is something that many purebred dogs, (as well as mutts) have in high levels and is considered a good thing by breeders. However, the very thing that makes a Labrador an excellent hunting dog, may cause it to chase things inappropriately and to possibly torment the family cat. The instinctive herding nature of a boarder collie, will drive some owners crazy with barking. The point is, that working dogs, or sporting dogs have high levels of prey, defence and pack drive that, if left unshaped, don't always transfer well into the pet dog category. So when training a pet dog, one must adjust the plan of action to the situation.

For a instance, the approach to teaching, lets say, a labra-doodle to be a good family pet, would not be the same as if we were teaching it to be an competitive agility dog. Don't get me wrong, there are lots of people who want to take their dog to a higher level of obedience, or have aspirations of competing, even just for fun in sporting and utility events. For this type of client, you can expect that they will be thinking more long term and want to layer the training you can offer them, even using multiple trainers to get a diverse education. However, most people who come to pet dog trainers are not looking to compete with their family dog. They may end up pursuing that at some point as a hobby, but that is not what they are coming to the pet dog trainer for. I am quickly discovering that the competitive show dog and sporting dog world is an entirely different one. Although many competitive dogs make great family pets, the training is very specific and not suited to the average dog owner. Nonetheless, all dog training shares some of the basics of obedience work and all dogs benefit from basic obedience training.

Like many people I stumbled into dog training because I started training my own dogs and got hooked. The more I learn about our canine companions the more I want to learn. They are such an amazing addition to our lives and such a compliment to our being. The more I learn about dog training, the more I realize I have so much more to learn. There are as many methods out there as there are trainers. Everyone has different advice; however, not all methods are appropriate to all dogs or all types of owners. The important thing I have learnt from Holly and Miko, is if it isn't working, try something else. When you figure out the thing that does work, then you can go back and try the other method again (if you really think there is something to be gained by it). For example, treat training works on Miko, but affection wasn't the best way to get this shy dogs attention. In the beginning, it was a case of the reinforcement (petting) being perceived as and adversary. Nine months later, he will do things just for love and enjoys a good bum rub! More surprisingly, with my dog aggressive Holly, now that I have her reactivity under control, using strictly pack order and traditional obedience training, I'm bridging back to clicker exercises and operant conditioning and it is working!

Leader of the Pack

Dominant Aggression:

Although it may seem cute when a young puppy growls, this could be the first signs of aggression. Food guarding and snapping at guests, may seem harmless when a dog is small, but people don’t understand is that this dog is showing the early signs of dominance. The truth is that this pup is probably going to grow up to be aggressive to family members in addition to strangers. Early growling can easily develop into an adult that tries to take control of the house. Dominant Aggression needs to be controlled from the start, (no matter how cute or small the dog is).

Often people will say that dog aggression seems to appear out of the blue, but there are always warning signs and early indicators of aggressive tendancies. For instance “offensive (dominance-related) aggression is often indicated by high postures, staring and chasing (Borchelt and Voith, 1996; Lindsay, 2001). Unfortunately, posturing and body language are often overlooked and growling as well as food guarding is simply punished, to the point the dog stops giving warning signals and goes straight to biting.

Dogs are pack animals and they live a pack life that has been bred into them since the beginning of time. Their very nature demands a pack order and if one is not set up for them, they will take it upon themselves to develop their own pack order by which they live. If the owner doesn’t establish itself as the pack leader and all humans to rank above the dog, it may take it upon itself to become the alpha. This is why many dogs will only obey one person in the household. It all comes down to how the dog views its order in pack.

Proper socialization at an early age can help reduce the chance of aggression. A dog “can be influenced by its experiences during early life, a time that is critical for establishing social relationships (Scott and Fuller, 1965). Puppies raised in isolation until the end of the sensitive period (12 weeks of age) tend to show deficits in play activity and to behave aggressively towards peers (Fox and Stelzner, 1967). Even if a dog learns to interact appropriately with littermates, these social skills may not be retained unless the dog continues to receive frequent conspecific socialization”. (Lindsay, 2001). The socialization must be ongoing and varied in order to expose the dog to as many things, people and stimulus as possible.

Prevention is the best cure, but to get control of an already dominant dog you must have his view of the pack order changed. He needs to be moved to the bottom of the list in terms of dominance. He must realize that all humans rank higher than himself. This is done by monitoring the order of every aspect of the dog’s life. Dominant dogs do not sleep on the bed or in the bedroom. The best place to sleep goes to the pack leader. Dominant dogs never eat from the table and are always fed “after dinner,” (lower pack members always eat last). Humans must have first access to all resources, to establish that the dog is the lowest ranking member of the pack.

Spaying and neutering the dog can help in reducing aggressive tendencies. However, not always in the case of females. “Most household aggression involves spayed females (Sherman et al., 1996) Furthermore: in regard to multiple dog homes.

“Overall (1997) observed that compared to neutered males, aggression in intact males is often more intense, quicker, and lasts longer. In contrast, spayed females have been found to initiate aggression more frequently than intact females (Sherman et al., 1996) and to display more dominance-related aggression after spaying”. (Voith and Borchelt, 91982; Kim et al., 2006).

The real key to controlling and preventing aggression is obedience training. This is a very important part of establishing some kind of order. The training method, when dealing with aggression, should not be the strictly a motivational approach. Motivation is used but it must be tempered with corrections for all unwanted behaviour. It is essential to interrupt all aggressive and dominant behaviour and provide the dog with a healthy and happy alternative. However, if the dog’s dominance has developed to a point where it tries to attack the handler when it gets corrected…then its time to get some professional help.

For information on the myths of pack order and dominance check out this link:

http://www.4pawsu.com/dogpsychology.htm

Close Encounters!

I was walking my dogs onleash a few days at a local park, when we were attacked by an off leash Chihuahua. Not surprisingly, my dogs were fine and the little dog was spared its life because, as I mentioned my dogs were leashed. Ironically, the lady bystander at the playground ran to see if the small dog was unscathed! Little did she know, I have spent countless hours training my dogs to not aggress and for the most part I can control them. However, I would never trust them off leash in a public place! Somehow, the owner of the aggressive small dog was not held accountable for not leashing his THREE small dogs in a public park. I on the other hand was feeling judged for my two dogs reacting badly to this holy terror.The bottom line is, if you have an aggressive dog, even if it is under your control and an off leash dog attacks you; you are still responsible for the damage your dog does! For this reason, I now carry pepper spray! Fortunately for the owner of the three off leash little dogs, who have repeatedly attacked my dogs (BTW: this is not our first encounter with him in out neighbourhood), I would never use it unless I absolutely had to. His dogs are very unruly, but not that big of a threat to me and my two 70lb Lab, Staffordshire Terrier mixes. I simply pulled my dogs into a sit and waited for the owner of the little dogs to come get his Chihuaha. A sitting dog can't fight!

Here's how I came to the decision to carry pepper spray. Not long ago, in a remote location, while my dogs were running off leash, we were surrounded by three Rottweillers. My female dog Holly, came running to me for assistance, or maybe protection. I grabbed her collar, turned my back to the dogs, as not to look them in the eye and held her fast to my crotch. At this point, I didn’t have a clue where my other dog, Miko was. He isn’t dog aggressive, so my main concern was to keep Holly calm and keep the dogs off her. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw a man emerge from the bush. He was frantically calling his dogs, who were now circling me growling and sniffing, to no avail. Suddenly out of no-where Miko came running up. He circled the crew of dogs and lured them off into a playful chase. The three big dogs were no match for his speed, or his size, as he ducked and dove through the trees. I called to the owner of the the three dogs to continue walking and call his Rotties away from me, instead of back toward me. Thankfully, Miko was un-effected by the entire attack. The larger dogs followed him in a game of chase until I was safe to release Holly and heel her off in the opposite direction. Miko followed shortly thereafter, happily and quite proud of himself. I was so proud of both of them!

The Safest Way to Break Up a Dog Fight:

By Ed Frawley: http://leerburg.com

"To break up a dog fight requires 2 people. Each person grabs the back feet of one of the dogs. The dog back feet are then picked up like a wheelbarrow. With the legs up, both dogs are then pulled apart.

Once the dog fight is broken up and the dogs pulled apart it is critical that the people do not release the dogs or the dog fight will begin again. The two people need to start turning in a circle, or slowly swinging the dogs in a circle while they back away from the other dog. This stops the dog from curling and coming back and biting the person holding their legs.

By circling the dog has to sidestep with its front feet or it will fall on its chin. As long as you slowly continue to back and circle, the dog cannot do any damage to you. To insure that the fight will not begin all over again when you release the dogs, one of the dogs needs to be dragged into an enclosure (i.e. a kennel, the garage, another room) before the dog is released. If you do not do this, the dogs will often charge back and start fighting again or if you release the dog to quickly the dog will turn and attack the person who had his feet.

Dog fights are a very dangerous thing to try and break up alone. You should never rush in and try and grab the dogs to pull them apart. They are in high "fight drive" and are not thinking clearly when fighting. If someone grabs them they will bite without even thinking about who or what they are biting. This is how your loving pet can dog bite the living crap out of you in about a second and a half.

In reality it probably doesn't even know it's biting you. I compare it to a bar fight. If a person comes up behind 2 guys fighting and just reaches out and grabs the shoulder of one of the combatants most of the time the fighter is going to turn and throw a punch without even looking at who or what he is hitting. This is because his adrenaline in pumping and he is in "fight drive".

The worst case scenario is that you are alone when a serious fight breaks out. There are a couple things that you must keep in mind:

• Keep your cool you have a job to do.

• Do not waste time screaming at the dogs. It hardly ever works.

• Your goal is still the same; you must break up the fight without getting hurt.

• Go get a leash (allow the fight to continue while you do this).

• Dogs are almost always locked onto one another. Walk up and loop the leash around the back loin of the dog by either threading the leash through the handle or use the clip. I prefer the thread method.

• Now slowly back away and drag the dog to a fence or to an object that you can tie the leash to. By doing this, you effectively create an anchor for one of the dogs.

• Then walk around and grab the back legs of the second dog and drag it away from the dog that is tied up. Remember to turn and circle as they release.

• Drag the dog into a dog pen or another room before you release the back legs.

• Go back and take the dog off the fence and put him or her into a dog kennel.

• Sit down and have a stiff drink (or two).

People talk about using cattle prods or shock collars to break up 2 pets that fight. I can tell you that many times this is not going to work. The electric cattle prod or electric collar will only put the dogs into higher fight drive. When they are shocked they will turn and bite the prod, or when they are shocked they will think the other dog is causing the pain and they will fight harder. An electric collar is best used in conditioning training, but not during an actual dogfight.

A point I would like to make is that if you see two dogs out there squaring off through body posturing (i.e. one dog with stiff legs and tail straight up in the air putting his head over the shoulders of the other to show dominance) do not run out there screaming "NO NO NO!!!!" Most of the time this is going to trigger the fight. A lot of times dogs will posture and one will give in and back away. They settle their dominance issue without a battle. I NEVER, NEVER, NEVER recommend testing this situation. It's not worth the fight that erupts if you are wrong."

Dog Fights and Dog Bites:

Here are just a few of the facts that were explained by 20-20:

My source http://leerburg.com

• 90% of dog bites happen to people who know the dogs

• Most of the dogs that bite are the family pets

• 60% to 70% of dog bites are to children or the elderly

• 40% of the bites to children result in loss of facial tissue (lips, cheek etc.)

• 1/2 of the claims made on homeowners insurance are dog bites claims!

Ed Frawley wrote, "An interesting point that 20-20 made is that more dog bites come from small dogs than from big dogs. The University of California did a study and found that dogs under 16 pounds are more likely to snap at people. My personal feeling is that “SMALL DOG OWNERS” do not perceive their dogs as being very dangerous. The majority of large dog owners make some attempt at controlling aggression problems, (even if it’s just giving the dog away or having it put to sleep). While the small dog owners often tend to ignore the problem and feel that their little terrier is just being cute when it growls at kids or guests that try and sit on the couch next to it. The fact is small dogs can bite SMALL KIDS in the face."

On this note:

Aggressiveness in dogs has a number of different causes often due to poor breeding and / or poor socializing. Many pet owners don’t recognize the early signs of dominant aggression or fear aggression and over look it as either alpha behavior or shyness. For instance a cute puppy slowly developed into a fearful biter after not dealing with it growling at people who came to visit. The pet owner cannot deal with the, now adult, dog that becomes overly aggressive at friendly strangers. Understanding where aggression has its roots will help people understand the methods used in controlling the problem. Early detection of reactivity and early socialization is key in avoiding adult dog aggression.

Types of Aggression:

Dominant Aggression- when a dog is struggling for rank in the pack.

Territorial Aggression- when a dog is fearful of losing its resources

Fear Aggression- lack of socialization or weak nervous system

Prey or Predatory Aggression- instinctive prey drive and lack of socialization with other animals and sometimes small children.

Zero Tolerance!

Many behavioral problems are in actuality training issues. With daily work, my dogs are getting progressively better behaved; nevertheless, some of their habits are unacceptable and seem to be chronic. Holly jumps up and pushes people over. She is a bully and barks at the neighbors. Miko, my boy dog, barks at everything, especially men. He also pushes past me and pulls on his lead. I have been working on improving their level of obedience and using positive training methods to reinforce their good behaviors. Unfortunately, even though they are improving and are more manageable; they are still misbehaving. The reason for this is that I have been unintentionally reinforcing their habits. Simply put, dogs only do things that work. They have a desired outcome, if achieved, the reward ensures they will perform the action again. The reason they continue to do these annoying things is because they bring about the desired results.

Regardless of your chosen training techniques, it is not effective to simply punish your dog! To decrease bad habits, you must give your dog the exact opposite of what it wants in order to make it clear that the action is not going to bring about the desired effect. Punishment, verbal and even physical, for some dogs is perceived as attention. For attention seekers like my Holly, the punishment becomes an enforcer! Squeaky noises, squealing and yelling at her makes her happy and reinforces the jumping. Pushing her down becomes a game. For Miko, his barking makes people go away. Even though it is often barking through the window and the passer-by is going by regardless; he perceives it as a victory and that ensures he will do it again the next time. The same goes for pulling. Miko pulls me to get to the park faster and sure enough it does get us there! Even though I am correcting him the entire way, even treating him for heeling, he is reinforced by the fact that we get to the park because he has pulled me there. If I punish him by pulling back on the leash, it just amps him up!

To control unwanted behavior you must give the dog the opposite of what it wants. When Miko pulls, I turn around and walk him the other way. We don't move one inch toward the park until he heels nicely. If he barks through the window, he loses his privileges of looking out. I take away his ability to see people move away. He values his freedom to look out the window and guard the house, so I made up a two bark rule. I take that freedom away from him, each and every time he barks (more than twice). When Holly jumps up for attention, she gets ignored and turned a back to. She must sit for any positive interactions. Jumping gets her nothing! Similarly, if she barks for attention or demands treats, she gets ignored or quietly put out of the room. This requires "Zero Tolerance" of bad behavior. I now do not allow her to pull on the leash either. She has a good heel, but lunges at other dogs. This results in me turning on my heels and walking the other way. She is aggressing over territory, barking, as well as lunging. This results in her losing access to that territory. What I had taken to be fear aggression may actually be a dominance issue. She wants to be top dog! Since aggressive displays now results in a loss of resources to her, the behavior has decreased.

I think we humans complicate things too much when we try to teach our dogs as if they are our children. Dogs are very simple creatures, in that they do what works! We people will bang our heads against a wall trying to fit a square peg into a round hole, whereas dogs will only try something a couple times without results. If it doesn't work, they will most likely move onto something that does. Figure out what is the most "basic" reason your dog is doing whatever it is you don't like and either make it impossible for the dog to continue that behavior, or give it the exact opposite outcome that it desires. This will aid in correcting them faster than verbal or physical punishment. (Technically, punishment is anything that decreases a behavior, but in this case I am referring to the familiar term of scolding or even physically dominating). In terms of reinforcing, I reward all good behavior too. Giving attention and / or resources (access to something), as well as praise and treats, will increase the good behavior while you are decreasing the bad. "Zero Tolerance" doesn't mean "punishment", it simply means consistency!

An Alternative Kennel and Boarding Program!

Finding the right place to board your dog is difficult. There are many factors to consider. There are so many new fancy dog hotels and spas to choose from in the city, but they are very expensive and cater to a specific kind of urban dog. I had tried to put Holly in a luxurious dog hotel once and was told she was not welcome back! Even before she had the dog aggression problems she has now, she was a high strung and difficult dog. She got bored easily and was constantly seeking out activity. She was simply under exercised and bored at the doggie spa and went around bullying other dogs, stealing their toys and basically stirring up trouble. Don't get me wrong, my two pooches love lying on the couch with me watching tv, but that is not what I am looking for in a kenneling facility. For me and my dogs it is a question of safety and security.

The next time I went away, I had a friend stay with Holly and was told on my return that he was not interested in taking care of her EVER again. She chewed a $1500 couch as well as a hat and a few pillows, all out of boredom. It went as badly or worse with my other dog, Miko, who is fearful of people, when he managed to escape his dog stay while I was away in Mexico and was missing for over 16 hours. He got hit by a car and ran scared all night. He was recovered about 20km from where he escaped his foster parents yard. Hence my need to find a place where the dogs would be well cared for and kept from harming themselves or anyone else. I had accepted that perhaps, I would never be able to travel, when I discovered the LAPS program at the Fraser Valley Institution.

The FVI is a correctional facility for women under the jurisdiction of the Correctional Service of Canada. On the grounds they have an excellent Dog Training and Boarding Centre for the Patti Dale Animal Shelter. Basically, the Langley Animal Protection Society works in partnership with the Correctional Services of Canada to save animals and provide job skills and experience in animal handling for female offenders, under the leadership of professional dog trainers. Kennel employees train, walk and groom the dogs. The women interested in the program go through an application process and must be approved to work in the kennel. Although the kennel area is off limits to the general population of FVI, the other women can interact with the dogs when they're out being walked on the grounds or if a dog is living in an inmate's house. The dogs get an average of eight outings a day and the women get the opportunity to interact with "woman's best friend". In the facility, they have both full- and part- time staff, plus a couple of volunteers who work a few hours a week. All kennel workers, whether full-time, part-time or volunteer, learn safe handling practices, how to administer medications, animal first aid and the basics of animal care. The animals' welfare is always the priority and they foster a true sense of professionalism and responsibility. The designated staff create an atmosphere similar to what you would find in a work place out in the community.

The FVI kennel program is a job training program, although, for many of the women, just being around the dogs is therapeutic. The individuals involved in the program learn skills that they can use when they are back in the community. In this full-service boarding and kennel facility, everything is done by inmates, with the exception of collecting payment and client's personal information. They offer boarding, daycare, grooming and training. All of the women participating in the program must take one or more of the certificate programs offered. When they have employees who are interested in developing their training skills, they bring shelter dogs from LAPS out to the kennel. These dogs are the responsibility of the woman to whom they are assigned. The animal will live in inmate's house with her and she will keep a log of all the training she does with him. She will receive training instruction and also work with the dog on her own time. When the time comes for the pooch to go up for adoption, people will come to FVI to see the dog. The employee will get to meet the potential adopters and demo her dog's training. This is the way the women in the program gain the experience needed to train client's dogs.

The training programs available are:
Kennel attendant - level one
Kennel attendant - level two
Groomer's assistant
Professional dog trainer

The kennel program provides a safe place for the women to work and gives them practical and realistic knowledge about working in a busy dog kennel. It is a physically and mentally challenging job and working with the dogs is very rewarding.The canine program helps the women develop a good work ethic, work cooperatively as a team and learn to take responsibility for their actions. They develop their self-worth and learn valuable skills that can help them wherever their lives may take them. It is a wonderful way for women to better themselves; however, the thing I like the most about this kenneling and boarding program is that my dogs are happy and healthy when they return from it. They receive 6-8 outings a day on the 10 acre property, where they are walked, set free to romp and play in gated areas, or hang out with the staff and experience the country smells. I just got back from a five day camping trip. I couldn't take my dogs because they are not reliable off leash and have too strong a prey drive to be in the wilderness. I left them with the ladies at FVI and was confident that not only would they be well cared for, but also that they would be loved, exercised and kept safe. For my fearful dog Miko, I knew that being around women only would assure he was not under stress because he is terrified of men. Another bonus is that it is affordable! One dog is boarded at just $23 per day and the two together, only $41 per day. I brought their food and vitamins and the kennel staff was more than willing to cater to their special needs. They came home well exercised and looking great! The best part is, I can now travel or go away from time to time and relax knowing that the dogs are secure.


To contact FVI: www.lapsbc.ca/fvi or call #604-851-6076

(Special thanks to Becky Hemphill , who runs the program and provided me with much of the information listed in this entry.)

Don't Give Up Dog Training!

It takes time and commitment to condition a dog, let alone counter condition a damaged dog. I found with my two rescues that there were many contributors to their issues. I had to tackle each problem separately, yet all together because many of their triggers and habits re-enforced the others. Although, some of it was basic diet, training and exercise related; I found that most of their problems were related to anxiety. I needed a trainer to help me re-frame things and to assist me in finding the motivations and methods that worked on each individual dog and help me get them on the road to recovery.

Finding your dog's triggers is easy and obvious, but finding how to redirect their energy into something positive is a challenge. A professional dog trainer can help you set up an outline and schedule to follow. The right trainer can set you up with a program that will help you and your dog attain success. Dogs generalize, they don't treat experiences separately like we humans do. They have defaults that they fall into, some good, some bad. For my two dogs, Holly and Miko, anxiety, especially fear anxiety, sent them into a frenzy of lunging, barking and display behaviors that seemed aggressive and dangerous. I had to tell myself "these are only behaviors". These outbursts have to be taken seriously, in order to avoid a bite situation, but behaviors can be modified. Don't give up!

To understand behavior modification use the analogy of dieting:

Let's say you start a diet and you weigh yourself everyday. The first week, you are also exercising and dishearteningly, you actually gain weight...muscle weighs more than fat. (You are progressing, but aren't seeing the results.) The experienced personal trainer knows that to obtain positive lasting weightloss, you need to change a number of things in your lifestyle. Some of these things are going to take a while to manifest. Unfortunately, many people want fast results and give up. They give up on their diet and exercise plan, returning to their old ways, only to suffer the same old plight. Much the same, people give up on their dog and go back to the methods that were not working because they didn't get the results they were looking for fast enough. This leads us back to the same problems, which often get even worse. So don't measure your success daily, gage it by how quickly your dog recovers from situations and how much less they react. One big success is learning to read your dog and prevent situations from repeating themselves. Keep a journal and weigh in weekly, even monthly.

I had to slowly expose my dogs, bit by bit, to their triggers, in a safe and controlled way, not avoid them, to raise their threshold for the things that scared them. This meant setting up a program of desensitization. Ironically, I found that when I started out on my program with Holly and Miko their issues actually got worse! I wanted to give up! Then I read something about response perseverance. Often behaviors get worse before they get better (like the weight gain when you start building muscle from working out). The dog will often get frustrated by being redirected constantly and cling even stronger to old behaviors. Through much reading and studying I learned that the aggression will decrease eventually if you stay consistent. I kept up clicking and treating and redirecting their anxiety in hopes that it would eventually lead to results.

The approach that I had initially (and mistakenly) taken with Holly was correction and punishment (which has been proven to actually increase anxiety and lead to increased reactivity!) The problem was that punishment for growling and lunging made Holly, my dog aggressive dog, believe that I was upset at her BECAUSE the other dog was approaching. She became louder and more aggressive in her displays of grandeur. She became even more anxiety ridden when she spotted an approaching dog, now reacting from greater distances. Perhaps because she thought I was going to get mad if the dog got close. On the other hand it may have just been because I was setting a bad example and losing my cool. More importantly, punishment is dangerous because it feels good for the punisher!

(Read the entry below on leash aggression)

Eventually, I became better at handling their outbursts. As I became calmer, the dogs became easier to control. It wasn't so much that they weren't reacting, but they were recovering faster. Eventually, I was able to get them to do other things in place of aggressing. It sounds simple, but even getting Holly and Miko to take a treat rather than bark and lunge was not possible in the beginning. Think of it this way, when you are scared, the last thing you want to do is have a snack! After five months of counter conditioning, which in this case was linking a marker (a click or phrase) to good behavior (calmly enjoying a treat or receiving a lot of praise) I can now get them to focus on me...not always without growling and barking, but at least without lunging. I can now get them to preform simple default behaviors, like sit or turn around and heel or touch my hand. This is the beginning of recovery. This is the beginning of success!!!!

(If you aren't familiar with clicker training visit: http://www.clickertrain.com/whatis.html )

The key to success is to be a good handler. Don't set your dog up to fail by forcing them to face their fears too quickly or at too close a proximity. Work your dog below it's threshold, that is the distance from it's trigger that it requires before it gets too worked up. Eventually, you can get closer to the scary thing by creating positive associations with the trigger. Keep calm and remember to forgive! Dogs are so forgiving of us, we owe them the same. Be a generous and positive leader, rewarding all good behavior. Lead by example! For instance, my friend says hello to everyone who passes her when she is walking her dog. It makes the approaching person relax and tells the dog that you are happy to see this person or approaching animal. I try to warn people (in a cheery voice) that my dog isn't friendly, or doesn't like other dogs. This allows the other person an opportunity to keep their distance. I also move off the sidewalk and allow people the space that makes them comfortable. Being a good handler is about respect, for the dog, for others and for yourself.

Finally, I can't stress the importance of reading books and gathering information from trainers. Not everyone can afford a personal trainer, but in the long run, you can save time and money by finding someone that has experience with the issues you face. Aggression is a symptom of underlying problems. You need to treat the real problem in order to see a decline in aggression. (I have discovered that my dogs don't sleep enough. That is something I never would have considered had my trainer, Sarah from Rocket Dog, not pointed it out. They only sleep eight to ten hours because they are anxious all the time. Most dogs need 16-18 hours of sleep.) It could be your dog has a lot of energy and needs more things to do and more exercise to tire it out. It could be that there are things you haven't considered that will aid in your dogs recovery and make your training go much smoother and faster. Reading about basic dog behavior and fear aggression, I realized my dogs are not beyond repair. I started this blog in hopes to share my experiences with others, as so many people have shared with me.

Growly Dog Reading List:
(from Rocket Dog trainer and founder, Sarah Giammarino)

Brenda Aloff. "Aggression in Dogs: Practical Management, Prevention and Behaviour Modification". Aloff describes theory and practical information. She details both how to avoid aggression and how to deal with it when it occurs. This book is rated highly by many trainers.

Brenda Aloff. "Canine Body Language".
A picture book on dog body language. You must own this book if you want to rehabilitate your dog aggressive dog!

Emma Parsons. Click to Calm: "Healing the Aggressive Dog".
Parson’s describes the rehabilitation of her dog reactive Golden Retriever. Full of how-to's and practical instructions.

Pamela Dennison. "How to Right a Dog Gone Wrong".
Great idea book on controlling your dog. It really is a roadmap for re-training aggressive dogs in a pet-dog environment.

Jean Donaldson. "The Culture Clash".
Although not very well organized as a reference book and seems presumptuous about the state of knowledge that most dog owners actually have, it is a good starting point to the study of behaviourism. Many people read this book again and again.

Patricia B. McConnell, Karen B. London. "Feisty Fido". Help for the Leash Aggressive Dog.
(Booklet 56 pgs) A starter package for dealing with on leash aggression using positive-based training techniques. No resocializing socializing discussed, but great for new students!

Karen Pryor. "Don’t Shoot the Dog!"
The grand-mother of dog training. Pryor’s book details theory into practice (human, dog, exotic animal behaviour). Recommended by veterinary behaviorists and trainers alike. This is not a “how-to” book, but a “why-to” book.

Stanley Coren. "How Dog’s Think".
Discover how your dog is viewing the world! Great book on the five senses and types of learning dog’s experience.

Leslie McDevitt. "Control Unleashed: Creating a Focused and Confident Dog". Great for people who have a reactive dog yet want to compete in dog sports. This book is changing the landscape of rehabilitating dog reactive dogs and dogs with general anxiety.

Poop Eaters

When I adopted Miko, he had a variety of weird quirks. The most distasteful of which was coprophagia. He ate his own poop! It was disgusting and very upsetting for me. Luckily, he wasn't very friendly to start, so he never tried to kiss me after committing the crime. Unfortunately, my other dog was extremely friendly and had taken to french kissing. She could easily and quickly catch you off guard and get you in the kisser. It was too my horror, when one day, I caught her copying Miko and making a light snack of her own turd! Something had to be done!

It is a very common problem and hard to treat, since it is hard to understand. First you must figure out why the dog is doing it, then make it difficult for them to repeat the pattern. Miko ate poop because he was from an abusive situation. He was forced to live in his own excrement; so for him it was a matter of house cleaning. He also was starving to death and most likely got some nutrition from recycling his own waste. I realized that Holly, my other dog was simply copying him. Allelomimetic behavior is common in dogs and is how learn from their pack. "Monkey see-monkey doo-doo!". Holly had simply watched Miko and decided it was something fun to do. UGGG!

To tackle the problem, I decided to get the dogs on a really high quality food, so that they wouldn't be lacking any nutrients. This was not so easy because I had actually switched to a lower quality food than I had Holly on because Miko couldn't stomach the protein and fat in her formula. I wanted them on the same food, so no jealousy would develop and Miko got terrible gas and the scoots from rich dog food. I mixed the quality food with the lesser quality food to start the switch over. After a week or so, I had them on the better quality food and the problem got worse. I guess they liked the taste of their higher quality turds even better than the lesser fortified ones. I just couldn't win!

The second plan of attack was to clean up their poops before they could engage in the deed. I always kept an eye on them in the backyard and cleaned up after them regularly, but I was now going to have to follow them around until they eliminated and pick it up immediately. This is the easiest way to put an end to the problem. Nevertheless, there were times when I was just not fast enough. At this point, I was getting pretty frustrated! The key is not to make a big deal of it, don't make it into a game of chase or some kind of attention seeking activity. I would just make a loud noise like a clap or physically interrupt the behavior with an "off" or "leave it" command. No yelling, no chasing, no punishment, just an interrupter and clean up the mess. After a few weeks, the coprophagia was less frequent.

Eventually, both dogs realized it was not allowed and gave up the practice. It was a long time before I could leave them unattended in the backyard, but six months later the problem is nearly extinct. I don't doubt they eat the odd bit and given the chance would eat cat turds (this is common because cats have a higher level of protein in their waste. They are carnivorous, where as dogs are omnivorous and therefor there is more nutritional value in the poop.) I just keep a close eye on them and keep the yard clean at all times. I did spray them with the hose a couple times to get the point across, which was very effective. This method works on my dogs because they are big and a blast from the hose interrupts them, doesn't harm them in any way. However, I caution using any form of punishment, regardless of how inadvertent. Firstly, because it doesn't work, only makes the dog afraid of you (or the hose) and also because the dog is behaving this way for a reason. You can't fix a problem until you get to its source. Ultimately, he finds eating poop quite satisfying, only you have a problem with it. You can't punish a dog for being a dog!

Here are some reasons why dogs practice Coprophagia:

"Coprophagia is the ingestion of poop that is neither accidental nor incidental. It is deliberate and habitual."


Why Dogs Eat Poop: 20 common reasons

1. Your dog might just be hungry. If your dog doesn't have access to food, he might eat poop.

(Try feeding him a bit more.)

2. Some dogs will eat poop to clean up an area like a housekeeper. This is most likely if your dog is confined to a crate or kennel, or when he's chained up or otherwise restricted. He's taking care of his space. He needs to have an alternative to eliminating where he lives or where he is restricted to. This means taking him to a designated place to do his business.

(Once a dog begins soiling his crate, you need to work with a professional to retrain him. Time to work on re-house training.)

3. If your dog likes to carry poop, and then eat it, it could be genetics. Some dogs have instincts to carry stuff in their mouths.

(Make sure he has toys to carry, providing alternatives. Also, clean up the poop, so he can't pick it up!)

4. Your dog might be eating poop because of parasites or worms. They can suck nutrients out of your dog, driving him to eat poop. It might also leave him extra hungry because of the lack of proper fuel.

(A visit to the vet is always recommended to rule out any health problems. Especially if this is new behavior)

5. Your dog might be eating cat poop or other animal poop to get key nutrients and minerals not available in his own food.

(Time to try a higher quality food).

6. Some dogs will simply eat poop to pass the time. Dogs will eat poop because they are bored or lonely, a sign of neglect.

(Provide alternatives, give the dog kongs or things to do and play with. It's likely the yard or area needs to be kept poop free.)

7. Your dog might eat poop because he's anxious, nervous or otherwise upset. Stress will drive animals to do odd things.

(Find out what is stressing the dog and keep a journal of the factors that might be effecting him. Then you can make changes.)

8. Some dogs will eat poop to hide the evidence. Punish your dog for pooping and he might eat it to avoid it.

(As I mentioned above, don't punish your dog! It almost always results in some kind of negative alternative behavior).

9. If your dog has puppies, she might eat puppy poop. This is an instinct to hide the poop from predators. Poop is evidence. Getting ride of it keeps her puppies safe. This is natural and instinctive behavior.

(Keep the whelping area clean and also clean up after the pups.)

10. Some young dogs and puppies will eat poop as a novelty. That is, they'll eat poop as an experiment.

(Just stop them by interrupting the behavior and remove the novelty.)

11. If your dog watches you pick up poop, he might learn to do the same. This is called allelomimetic behavior. Your dog observes you and learns from you, by putting the poop in his mouth you put poop in a bag.

(More often though, the dog is copying other dogs, not humans. Again keep the yard clean.)

12. Your dog might see others dogs eating poop. From this, they learn to eat poop too.

(Keep the yard and areas clean! They can't eat it if you pick it up right away.)

13. Many dogs simply like the taste of poop. This obviously doesn't make sense to dog owners but that's irrelevant. Some dog like to eat it and that's that. It's warm, moist, and very much like what your dog was given as a very young puppy.

(There are non-toxic products to spray on the poop that discourages re-ingesting it. Again, pick it up so they can't eat it.)


14. If your dog food lacks key nutrients, he might eat poop. Your dog is trying to get "food" with nutrients any way possible, even from his own poop.

(Again try new food or a vitamin for dogs.)

15. Sometimes dog poop seems like dog food. This can happen when dog food is low quality and includes materials that are easily passed and not absorbed by your dog. When the dog poops, it seems to be very much like the food he just consumed!

(Change the food and see, but usually the habit is formed and you need to pick it up before he can eat it.)

16. In some cases, dogs will eat poop if they are given too much food. This is especially true if your dog's diet is high in fat.

(One sign of this is excessive gas. Food can be too high quality, especially if the dog is accustomed to less expensive brands.)

17. Some dogs will eat poop to gain attention. Many dog owners get very upset when their dog eats poop, which means the dog gets attention. This is an opportunity for your dog to interact with you, regardless that it is because of negative attention.

(Don't make it a game. Just calmly interrupt the behavior, gently but physically move the dog aside and clean up the poop!)

18. It is possible that some dogs will eat the poop of other, more dominant dogs. Your dog might be more submissive than other dogs, resulting in strange poop eating behavior. This seems to occur more in households with multiple dogs where dominance and submission is a factor. Obviously this doesn't explain much about dogs eating cat poop or other animal poop.

(This is tricky. In a multiple dog home, it is hard to keep up with the doggie doo. Again, clean it up as quickly as possible.)

19. It is possible that your dog wants to eat more than one time per day. If you only feed your dog once per day, and your dog eats poop, it could be an indication they want to eat more frequently.

(This is an easy fix, but still to stop the habit, keep a close eye on the dog and keep the yard clean).

20. In some cases, your dog will eat poop by accident. Dogs are curious and will try to eat almost anything, including poop. Dogs explore the world through taste and smell, much more than humans.

(Don't punish your dog for being a dog.)

There are lots of alternatives to punishment. "Leave it" and and "off" commands only work if you are present when they engage in the action. You absolutely can't teach your dog not to do something you didn't witness. Rubbing a dog's nose in it's poop is basically telling the dog that you WANT him to eat it! It might work because the dog associates the punishment with the poop, but it is destroying the bond you have with your dog and most likely will lead to some other manifestation of real problem.