Dog Training Tips from Yogadog Dog Training!

The structure of anything solid, comes from a strong foundation. It seems simple, but gets complicated...especially when you talk about dog training. We tend to look at trained behaviors as being separate and taught separately. However, when a dog lacks basic foundation behaviors, it is hard to teach it to do what we want it to do, like function calmly and properly in social situations. The most basic foundation behavior is one that people often fail to reinforce. We call our pets, or whistle to them and they come to us, or look at us in response. This is the most important tool that we can exercise with our pet, yet we often take it for granted. Every time your dog comes to you or looks toward you, it is a strengthening of the bond you share, a strengthening of the foundation of your relationship. Unfortunately, unintentionally people will sometimes poison this bond. If you interrupt your dog's (unwanted) behavior, perhaps calling the dog out of a potentially dangerous situation, then reprimand the dog for the event...this is poisoning the command. Humans expect dogs to understand what they are upset about; which is the outburst or the disobedience. However, the dog is probably connecting the reprimand to the action of coming when called. Because the dog often looks sheepish, we assume it understands and feels guilty about what it has done, but more than likely what we are perceiving is fear. The dog is actually coming to fear us and learning that it can't trust us as good leaders. Each time we punish a dog by calling it to get it to come, or to get it's attention and then reprimand it, we destroy the bond we have formed with it. We are in essence destroying the very foundation we strive to build.

Coming when called, or solid recall, is the most important foundation behavior that we as dog owners and handlers can work on. Most situations can be prevented or avoided by calling the animal out of it. A strong recall can save your dog's life! Most people that have problems controlling their dogs also have problems getting their dog to come. This reasons to say, that they might also have weak foundations on which they base the rest of their training. The way to begin properly training your dog is to first figure out how to get its attention. (I won't say undivided attention, because dogs will always have distractions that they find hard to resist). Nonetheless, at least knowing how to get your dog's attention will aid you in being able to keep its attention long enough and often enough to teach it the skills it needs to be a great companion and pet. All dogs have different distractions, drives and motivations. In the beginning you should practice all recalls without distractions and find out what is most likely to draw your dog to you. Is it food, is it toys that make squeaky noises, is it fun gestures or a game of chase? Dogs are simple...they will almost always give their attention and be drawn to the biggest distraction. The trick to teaching good recall is to make ourself as alluring as possible and practice it whenever possible. Often people call their dogs in a stern voice and expect them to obey. For the most part, they will come when called in this manner...unless there is something they like better or something distracting them that lures them away. We need to teach our dogs to choose us over their distractions. Through repetition and positive reinforcement the dog will learn to always choose you as the most interesting and consistent source of reward. Strong recall takes a lot of work, but it is the most important thing you can teach your dog.

The easiest attention getting exercise is rewarding any and all voluntary attention. If your dog looks at you, engage it, give it a treat or praise. If it comes up to you or returns it's attention to you...make a huge deal out of it. This is reinforcing good behavior. Sure it is not something that we commanded, but it is still an excellent foundation behavior that if gone unnoticed, will not strengthen. If you reward it, your dog will likely offer it more often and automatically. If your dog offers you its attention, then you will not have to worry about trying to get it! If you want your dog to come or do something other than what it is engaging in, you will already have done the ground work...with very little effort. In fact in this exercise the dog does most of the work for you. I think the reason this practice often goes unnoticed is because it is so simple it seems silly. Another reason people don't reward their dogs freely is that they don't want to spoil the dog or give it too much food. If you don't want your dog to gain weight from "excessive treating", then cut back on its daily meals. Eventually, you can find other things to give your dog as rewards. Food is simply something they relate to and instinctively strive to earn access to. If you don't want your dog to get spoilt, don't reward anything other than good behavior! If you want a dog that comes to you when called and is very interested in what you are doing or wanting it to do, make yourself the most delicious or interesting thing in the room or the situation. The easiest way to do this is through a reward system, treat training or praise. Getting a dogs attention is easy...make it fun! Ironically, making it fun for your pet, also makes it a lot more pleasant for you. Coming when called and recalls can be turned into attention games that are easy to do and will most likely lead to faster success for you and your dog.

Puppy training and puppy agility classes in Burnaby BC!

Agility training for puppies is a great way to get better focus and bridge to off leash work!

Yogadog Dog Training is now offering half price on Puppy Prana classes for 2013. Also being offered for only $75 is agility training for puppies. What better way to start the New Year than training your new pet? Dogs young and old can benefit from agility training, but during these rainy winter months it is hard to get out there and do the fun stuff that we did in the summer time. Indoor classes are the way to go and because they are so much fun, you'll be sure to want to do the work. Having a puppy is hard work, but it doesn't have to be all work and no play. Teach your puppy the skills to succeed in the challenges of the modern world while using play, rewards and engagement. Teach your puppy the Yogadog way!

Classes regularly priced at $150 now $75 for a limited time.

Classes are held Sundays at Pup Culture (#6939 Hastings Street, Burnaby, BC.)

Contact Shannon at 604-312-8754 or e-mail shannon@yogadog.ca

Limited space so RSVP ASAP!

Yogadog Dog Training

Yogadog Dog Training has a unique approach to dog training. It combines a variety of training methods, traditional and new age, to find programs that work for all kinds of dogs and people. The five programs that Yogadog offers are loosely and humorously based on practices of Yoga. All the courses are aimed at improving the bond that the dog owner has with his or her pet and establishing better communication. The classes begin with a short canine massage or meditation to help the canines and the students balance their energy before starting training. Warm ups are taught on mats, where dogs and humans are encouraged to let go of stress and really connect. It is not so much about teaching the dogs to obey, as it is about teaching the owners how to communicate better with their dogs. What better way to teach dogs new tricks than through positive reinforcement and team work!

Classes run at three locations, North Burnaby at Pup Culture (6939 Hastings Street), South Burnaby at We Care Dog Daycare (7844 Edmonds Street) and New Westminster at the Bosley's in Columbia Village (1015 Columbia Street). Outdoor agility and Canine Cardio Bootcamps are seasonal and will pick up again in the New Year! 

Check out www.yogadog.ca for scheduled times! 

“Puppy Prana” is a strictly positively based program on teaching puppies the skills they need to have a healthy, happy life. Prana simply means vital life. The dog learns to withstand and cope with measured amounts of social pressure, as well as socialize in a controlled fashion.

“Hatha for Hounds” is a basic course. It’s a great introduction to dog training and a perfect way to strengthen the bond you have with your dog. This class covers all the basic positions and loose leash walking techniques, as well as address a few common behavioral problems.

“Asanas Agility” class is an introduction to basic agility equipment and how to on train it. Get aquainted with the exciting world of agility "just for fun", while you gain the skills of competitive dog sport world. It is advisable for those interested to first take the beginner "hatha" class

“Advanced Ashtanga” reviews foundation behaviours and the basics of the beginner’s class. It prepares dogs and handlers for higher obedience and formal competitive heeling and teaching positions. This class focuses on better engagement and longer focus, as well as the control that is required to bridge to off leash work.

“Canine Kundalini” is focused on relaxation, impulse control and training tolerance, as well as balancing energy. It covers desensitization techniques and teach the dog and handler to remain calm under stressful situations.

For more information, e-mail me at shannon@dgudogtraining.ca

Canine Kundalini

A reactive dog does not become aggressive overnight. It becomes sensitized to stimulus, gradually and over a period of time.  The aggression often compounds regardless of well intended efforts to extinguish the behaviour. The dog continued to react and this repetitive behaviour becomes learnt behaviour. The more often the dog accessed this neural pathway the quicker and easier the behaviour triggered. Punishing the dog for aggressing may have worked to shut down the behaviour, but it didn't teach the dog to tolerate stimulus and decrease the stress on the animal. To begin treating aggression, we must first stop the dog from rehearsing the act of aggressing. To keep the dog from reacting, you may initially have avoid it's triggers and teach it coping skills that will lend themselves to impulse control and handling the stress of the modern world. Ideally we want to expose the dog to measured amounts of what it fears and teach it to handle the stress, so that it can learn to cope. This takes time, cannot be rushed and does not happen overnight! 

Reactivity is not usually a sign of the dog wanting to fight. It is actually a coping mechanism to avoid fighting. The dog becomes fearful or threatened and puts on a display to hopefully gain space or access to resources. Aggression is the symptom of fear and stress. To reduce aggression in our dogs we must teach them to handle stress in limited amounts and also desensitize them to the things they fear. Ironically, an aggressive dog is often the one who gets the least exposure to dogs and people and they need it the most. In order to expose a dog to stress and allow it to work through it we need some management tools in place. The owner needs to have a way to orient the dog toward him or her, as well as away from the target of the reactivity. Also, the dog must not be allowed to focus on or lung at the object of the aggression. The idea is to expose the dog at distances, pair the exposure with pleasant and relaxing things and then reduce the space in controlled increments. This is a combination of desensitization and counter conditioning.

One common problem with many aggressive dogs is lack of impulse control. Impulse control can be worked on separately from the aggression. You can teach impulse control using food and toys and by exciting the dog and then teaching it to calm down. If the dog is able to control its impulses with food and toys, you can build this control and transfer it to all parts of the dogs life. In Yogadog Canine Kundalini classes work on teaching impulse control, as well as teach the owners of reactive dogs how to stay calm in the midst of the aggressive display. The class covers management tools, proper greeting rituals, reading body language, as well as how to counter condition the dog to other dogs while preforming desensitization techniques in a calm and safe environment. Canine Kundalini is ideal for nervous and fearful dogs, as well as most aggressive dogs. Yogadog offers Canine Kundalini at Bosley's in New Westminster, BC, on Friday nights between 8-9pm. To register for this class, please contact shannon@yogadog.ca or call Yogadog trainer Shannon at 604-312-8754. Spaces are limited!

Canine Cardio Bootcamp

Canine Cardio Bootcamp is a training program that will give the dog and the owner a mental and physical work out! It is based on basic obedience commands mixed with fast heeling, jogging and play. I am finding that people, with their busy lives, don't have time to train their dogs, as well as exercise them and go to the gym themselves. The program would be designed in a way that is fun for the dogs and the owners. It would begin with practicing basic commands on six foot leashes and teaching the clients to use treats and toys to develop a dynamic training style. It also would train the dogs to be engaged with the owner, even when other dogs are present.

The idea would be to start slow, reviewing basic commands and then pick up the pace, continuing with "on and off games" , emergency downs, as well as honouring while the owners do jumping jacks and run circles around the dogs. The sections would be broken up with games of tug, as well as short breaks for the dogs to get water and the owners to catch their breath. The class would start with a fifteen minute warm up, working on focus games and simple commands, followed with two fifteen minute cardio sessions then ending with a cool down, possibly even a doggy massage on nice days. It would run between an hour and a half and two hours, with breaks and instruction periods. The pre-requisite would be a few basic obedience commands, but we would also cover them in class, as well as add a few bonus ones that would help burn off excess energy and make the workout more dynamic.

For "On and Off Games" and "Emergency Downs", see Don't Give Up on Defaults, cut and paste: http://dgudogtraining.blogspot.com/2010/10/dont-give-up-on-defaults.html

I have been training my dogs Holly and Miko using obedience, play and engagement. It is a great work out! The bonus is that when the dogs get working, they do faster, crisper sits and downs! Also, they pay more attention to me because I am so fun! My goal is to get out there and develop this program, as well as get fit. I'll be teaching people to exercise their dogs in a way that is dynamic and fun for humans and canines, meanwhile, getting experience as a pet dog trainer. Stay tuned, as the program is in the developement stages. The pilot class was July 24th, 2011 and it went really well. Depending on how many folks are interested, I would like to do regularly at the same local park near my home. (Confederation Park in Burnaby)

Dawg Talk

Dogs do not communicate with verbal language. They communicate on a much more fundamental and physical level than us humans. They express themselves with eye contact, or lack of eye contact and through body language. Actually we humans also communicate this way, but rely on speech to convey more complex ideas and opinions. It is because of our complex verbal system that we sometimes complicate dog training by using too many words and not being consistent with our actions. Ideally, we would like to use language as a training tool, but to do so effectively, the words must be conditioned to have meaning to the dog.

For instance, when your dog jumps up on you, pushing it and saying "off" can discourage this bad behaviour. However "pushing" in dog terms is playing...so if you are saying "off", make sure your body is communicating the same message. When you say the word, "off" or whatever you want to use for stopping unwanted jumping up, you should calmly walk into the dog and claim your space. Often times with more excitable dogs a collar correction is needed. I like to pull the dog into a sit, then reward it for compliance. To ensure you are not re-inforcing bad behaviour by giving attention for jumping up, ask yourself what your body language is say. Is it calmly and clearly giving the dog the message that you don't enjoy this behaviour? Some dogs just crave all attention and are rehearsing old habits that resulted in attention, bad or good. In addition to claiming your space, another good aversive is to withdraw all attention.When the dog calms down and offers appropriate behaviour then give it a verbal and physical cue that it has done well. "Good-boy!" followed by a pat or a treat. Body language is more useful than words in communicating with our dogs.

Rewards are really important in defining things for dogs. They are more likely to repeat behaviour that brings about positive outcomes. Reward systems are not just food based; although most dogs will work well for food. Some dogs don't care about treats and will do anything for a ball or a game of tug with you. Play driven dogs can be the easiest to train because unlike food, play drive doesn't usually decrease or become satiated. Also, playing with your dog doesn't result in weight gain. The other reward that is common is social acceptance and praise. Many dogs will work for praise and just to please you. When using verbal praise to train a dog, it must be conditioned to have meaning. Saying "Good Boy!" and following it with a bum rub or a pat will give the clear communication that you are happy with the dogs performance and a socially driven dog will often work simply for your approval.

Purely positive re-inforcement is a modern trend in dog training and it can bring about really great results, as well as build a strong bond between you and your dog. Nonetheless, punishment can also be conditioned to have meaning and clearly communicate to your dog when you are not happy with his performance. The word "NO" has no meaning to a dog, yet when coupled with an aversive, like a collar correction, the dog quickly realizes that NO indicates something unpleasant will follow and will associate this corrections with the thing it is doing at the time, thus reducing the behaviour. Properly administered correctives do work and are often necessary in clearly defining what is unacceptable.

I would also like to touch on the idea of conditioned interrupters as well as markers. Cesar Milan comes to mind, with his infamous "CHUCHT!" If you have ever watched how he interrupts a behaviour, makes this noise and follows it with a poke or a little nudge to the dog's side. He is essentially conditioning the dog to associate the sound with being poked or nudged with his foot. He also is interrupting the behaviour and getting the dog's attention. Dogs are physical and when conditioning a word or a sound to have meaning as a corrective, you must follow the word with some aversive. Anything that the dog doesn't like is an aversive...even petting can be a punisher if it is not enjoyable for the dog! Eventually, just the sound preceding the interrupter acts as the correction on its own.

When using markers, like clickers, we can also condition the dog to understand exactly when it has gotten something right. The verbal equivalent to a clicker is the use of a word or sound like "YES" and following it with a treat or reward. Eventually, the word "YES", or the click indicates to the dog that something good is coming. In addition, when the dog is not complying to what is being asked of him, the word or sound "UH-AH!" can be paired with withholding that reward to clearly communicate non-compliance. We can shape a dogs behaviour by simply rewarding or withholding rewards until he gets it right. Using interrupters and markers are a clear way of letting the dog know when it is doing something right or wrong.

It is important to keep it simple and make sure that your dog is understanding what you are trying to say. Work on developing clear communication by using verbal cues that have been conditioned to have meaning and let your dog know when he gets things right. Basically, through reward and corrections you can teach your dog words or sounds for indicating it got it and a reward is coming, or if necessary, that it has gotten it wrong and a corrective action is coming. Even withholding a reward is an effective aversive. The key is being very clear and consistent. Reward all good behaviour as well as interrupt and redirect all unwanted behaviour and a large portion of your training will be done! Remember, dogs will repeat behaviour that brings about positive results and will be less likely to repeat things that bring about unwanted results. Most of all I can't stress enough that dogs learn through repetition. Repetitive behaviour becomes learnt behaviour, so don't get lazy and let your dog repeat bad behaviour!

Be consistent and don't give up on your dog!

Debunk Dog Parks

I have a dog that is very reactive; yet this was not always the case. When I first adopted Holly (the brown dog) she was really excitable and sometimes her enthusiasm ended in bodily injury, mostly mine. Nevertheless, she was a one year old playful pup. Because she had been locked up in a bathroom for most of her life, never trained, walked or socialized, she had really bad manners, with both people and dogs. I believed that I could train her how to interact properly with humans and that letting her work out her communication with other dogs would be the fast track to teaching her dog park etiquette. So, I allowed other dogs at the park to correct her and often to give her a little roughing up. She eventually started fighting back and now I have a fear-aggressive dog.

The most important thing I realized is that if you have an aggressive dog, the only way to control them is training them to do other things than aggress. Give your dog fun things to do and let them know that you make good decisions by not setting them up to fail. Honestly, I was the one who needed training. I could have avoided many of her problems if I’d known how to direct her energy properly. Afterall, often dogs will teach each other to behave like wild animals, whereas we want to teach them to behave like pets. You often hear people say in reference to dogs showing aggression toward each other, let the dogs work it out…and in some situations this is true. However, in the case of badly socialized dogs, they often make bad choices based on lack of experience. I mean would you let your kids work things out in the playground if one of the kids was a bully and punching the other kids in the face? Of course not, so don’t let your undersocialized dog just work it out.

Canine Cardio Bootcamp!

Canine Cardio Bootcamp is a training program that will give the dog and the owner a mental and physical work out! It is based on basic obedience commands mixed with fast heeling, jogging and play. I am finding that people, with their busy lives, don't have time to train their dogs, as well as exercise them and go to the gym themselves. The program is designed in a way that is fun for the dogs and the owners. It begins with practicing basic commands on six foot leashes and teaching the clients to use treats and toys to develop a dynamic training style. It also trains the dogs to be engaged with the owner, even when other dogs are present.

We start slow, reviewing basic commands and then pick up the pace, continuing with "on and off games", emergency downs, as well as honouring while the owners do jumping jacks and run circles around the dogs. The sections of jogging are broken up with games of tug, as well as short breaks for the dogs to calm down and the owners to catch their breath. The class starts with a fifteen minute warm up, working on focus games and simple commands, followed with short cardio sessions and ending with a cool down, possibly even a doggy massage on nice days. It runs between an hour and a half and two hours, with breaks and instruction periods. The pre-requisite is a few basic obedience commands, but we would also cover them in class.

For "On and Off Games" and "Emergency Downs", see Don't Give Up on Defaults, cut and paste: http://dgudogtraining.blogspot.com/2010/10/dont-give-up-on-defaults.html

I have been training my dogs Holly and Miko using obedience, play and engagement. It is a great work out! The bonus is that when the dogs get working, they do faster, crisper sits and downs! Also, they pay more attention to me because I am so fun! My goal is to get out there and develop this program, as well as get fit. I'll be teaching people to exercise their dogs in a way that is dynamic and fun for humans and canines. Depending on how many folks are interested, I would like to do it regularly at the same local park. (Confederation Park or at Central Park in Burnaby)

Turtle Garden Rescue

Turtle Gardens began on April 8, 1988 as a no-kill facility to address a very real need for a safe haven for unwanted animals. There were no shelters of any kind for 250 miles – from Prince George to Terrace – 17 First Nation Communities and 11 Villages and Towns. Twenty years later there is still Turtle Gardens. They have adopted over 5000 dogs since inception; an average of 227 to 250 dogs per year. This blog is dedicated to all the adoptive parents that come to the "dog runs" organized by Turtle Garden, here in BC. These dogs are adopted, many as adult stray dogs, who have been fostered and socialized a bit, but have little or no training. It is my hope that they can log onto this blog and find some answers to the common questions and problems that come with adopting one of these special dogs.

The strays from Turtle Garden Rescue, many of which have not been raised in home environments, are different from other rescues. On a positive note, they often do not come with many of the behavioral problems that many shelter dogs possess. Nonetheless, some of them may have been abused and are recovering from neglect. They may suffer from lack preparation, simply because they have not experience many of the pleasures of domesticated life. Their possible lack of experience may be confused with lack of obedience, but these dogs are smart and very willing to please. You just need to give them the information they need to understand what is expected of them and this can take some creativity.

To start with and I can’t stress this enough, don’t let your new dog off leash and expect it to come back to you, or to even know that “come directly toward you” is what you want from it. If the dog has never known the joys of recall, or that good things happen when your new mum or dad calls your name, it is unlikely to figure it out without some work and practice. That is why we keep a leash on our dogs at all times at first, to make sure it never practices not coming! If you start off your relationship calling your dog repeatedly and it doesn’t understand what is expected, you are effectively teaching it to NOT come. You are poisoning and making redundant the very word that may save your dog’s life.

Also, don’t start your relationship with your newly adopted dog by taking them to a dog park. You want the dog to bond with you, not the dogs at the dog park. If you’d like to take your dog to the park, wait until you have a relationship that can compete with this type of distraction. Dogs will generally choose to run with a pack of dogs, over coming to their human, so don’t set your dog up to fail. At first take your new pet for a short, low stress walks where you can be the centre of its attention and it can be yours. Keep it on leash, on a collar it can’t back out of.Eventually the dog will learn to choose you over distractions, but this takes time…be patient!

If the dog somehow does manage to get loose (accidents do happen) remember, when you chase an animal, it will almost always run away, especially at the park where chase is the name of the game. If it gets out of it’s collar or out of the house, try to engage the dog by running the other way and calling it playfully, showing it food. I have thrown food at a dog, handfuls at a time to lure the dog to me. The dog will grow to value your approval and affection, possibly even over food, but in the beginning, the way to a new dog’s heart is most likely through its stomach.

Teaching your dog a new name:

Hand feeding your dog makes it easy to get the dog to bond and pay attention to you. Combined this with name games, you can kill two birds with one stone. Also, by playing name games, you teach your dog to tolerate and eventually seek out eye contact. Teaching your dog its new name is easy and if you want to change it’s name, now is the time to do it! So here is how, each and every time your dog looks at you, say it’s name and follow it with a treat.

I have developed a program called the three R’s:

1.) Recognition- teaching the dog it’s name, or it’s new name.

2.) Recall- teaching to come on command.

3.) Release- to be fair, you let the dog know it is “okay” to go.

RECOGNITION: The dog’s name is really the foundation of all commands. You need to get the dog's attention before you tell it what to do. To establish name recognition, I call my dog’s name, wait until he looks at me and throw him a treat. Looking at me, on cue, is all he has to do to get a treat! Do this repeatedly throughout the day. The most important thing about name RECOGNITION is that it gets your dogs attention. You want to have, or be able to get its attention at all times. Repetition of this assures that your dog will be well practiced in looking to you. Keep a bowl of treats in a dish, or a pocket full of treats, that you can get at easily.

NOTE: If you are concerned with your pet gaining weight, cut back on its meal size appropriately.

RECALL: The dog might already be coming to you, in anticipation of a treat, when you call its name. However, if the dog isn't already starting to head your way when you say it's name; then simply throw it a treat for looking at you when you call it and then show it a second treat. It should start to head your way for more treats. When it is already in motion, give the COME command. When it reaches you, give the dog the treat. You can do this while walking on leash and combine it with the name recognition. Call the dog's name...take a step back and lure the dog with a treat. This doesn't take much time and is an easy way of strengthening the bond you have with your dog.

If necessary you can change your recall word to HERE, if you think it will help things along. For many adopted dogs rescued from bad situations, it is necessary to change, not only the recall word, but also the dog's name to start fresh. I recommend changing it if there has been a history of abuse, or if the dog thinks COME means RUN!

RELEASE: Once the dog has come to you, you must let it know that it can go free again. Simply say OKAY, or whatever word you choose, after you give the dog the treat for coming. The importance of creating a release word is that it can be applied to anything that is considered an endurance command. You want your dog to understand that you expect it to do what you want, or ask it to do until you say otherwise. When you choose the word most comfortable for you, use it with everything.

Eventually, when the dog is laying down while you are having dinner, because you asked it to...say the release word...it will let the dog know that it can get up. If you have asked the dog to sit until you unclip it's leash, or until you say it can go out the door or exit the car, then use the word to let it know it can move around now that you say it is “okay”.

The fourth R is repetition!

REPEAT-REPEAT-REPEAT!

Eye Contact:

Dogs don’t naturally give eye contact. In fact, in dog behavior, eye contact is usually a display of aggression or a play attack. So keep in mind that your new dog may feel shy when you stare at it. It will most likely not want to eliminate in front of you. This means it will wait until you are not looking, probably in the house, and learn to relieve itself in an inappropriate place. When you get your dog home, find a place that is quiet and preferably green with lots of foliage, not an open space, where it can feel safe to go potty. If your leash isn’t long enough to give the dog room, then turn around and wait it out. Do not look at the dog, let it sniff and find a spot along the trees or shrubs. If it doesn’t seem to have to go, you can bring it inside, but don’t leave it alone. It may be waiting to be alone to eliminate. Try again in a half hour and repeat the process until the dog goes. If you are lucky enough to have a secured back yard, then you can do this off-leash, if not, then you may have to take a few short trips outside. When the dog does do it’s business, don’t make a huge deal, just throw a treat on the ground and say good Fido, or whatever you have chosen as a name.

Be patient!

The dog you are about to embark on a new relationship with is not like any other dog you have ever met or owned. Every dog, like every person, is unique. They all take their own time to adjust. Keep in mind that the build up to this adoption may have been a joyous experience for you, but for the dog it has likely been a bit traumatic. Think about how confused you would be if someone scooped you up and transported you without you knowing what the future held. It may take a few days before the dog learns to know and trust you. Do not expect it to know what is expected of it and don’t leave anything to chance. You will either need to be with the dog at all times to start with, or crate it to prevent the dog from exploring and getting into trouble.Repetitive behavior becomes learnt behavior. Only let your new dog repeat behavior that you want to become learnt. If you can’t be there and teach your dog what you want it to do, you must at the very least prevent it from doing what you don’t want it to do.

“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!”

AND REMEMBER...BE PATIENT!

Impulse Control and Managing Aggression

A reactive dog does not become aggressive overnight. It becomes sensitized to stimulus, gradually and over a period of time. Often the owner or handler, looks back and can remember the first incident, but at the time it seemed minor. The aggression compounded over time, regardless of any efforts to extinguish the behaviour. The dog continued to react and repetitive behaviour became learnt behaviour. The more often the dog accessed the neural pathway the quicker and easier the behaviour triggered. Punishing the dog for aggressing may have worked to shut down the behaviour, but it didn't teach the dog to tolerate stimulus and decrease the stress on the animal. To begin treating aggression, we must first stop the dog from rehearsing the act of aggressing. However, to keep the dog from reacting, you may initially have avoid it's triggers and teach it coping skills that will lend themselves to impulse control and handling the stress of the modern world. Ideally we want to expose the dog to small amounts of its triggers and teach it to handle the stress, so that it can learn to cope. This takes time, cannot be rushed and does not happen overnight!

One common characteristic I have found amongst aggressive dogs, is lack of impulse control. The dog simply can't control itself or it's emotions under stress. Teaching our dogs to calm down and eventually putting it on cue takes time. We can teach the dog impulse control using toys and food and bridge this work to self control and controlling its impulse to overreact and aggress. For an excited, stressed out or fearful dog aggressing feels good and blows off a lot of steam. It allows the dog to release tension and frustration. The fear feels bad, but the outlet of stress feels good and often results in gained space or resource. Aggression in itself is a rewarding behaviour. That is why repeated aggression strengthens aggression and eventually the outburst become automatic emotional response systems. We need to teach the dog alternative behaviours that are incompatible to aggressing. To prevent rehearsal of aggression, we need to teach these behaviours outside the triggering stimulus. Start with no distractions and practice sits and focussed looks, as well as recalls, until they too are automatic response systems. Then we can use learnt impulse control when triggers are present.

I teach skills incompatible with aggression, without distractions and away from triggers, so I can use these skills when I need them. To put it simply, I am a better dog handler when my dog is not throwing a temper tantrum and my dog is actually able to pay attention to me when there are no other distractions. My fear aggressive dogs learn alternate behaviours like come or heeling off in another direction, or sit facing me, as well as calming down when I grab its collar. In order to do this you can teach the dog to calm down on cue using play. Get the dog excited, grab its collar with both hands, one on either side and gently pull up. With larger dogs I pull them up to my front, but with smaller dogs it is easier to bend down and do it to the side. The dog usually calms and I release the pressure, not the collar, just the tight hold. Keep calm and still, ask for a "look" or if the dog isn't already sitting and giving to the collar pressure, ask for a "sit". Now say "good" or "yes" to let the dog know it got it right, then release "okay". Now you can move onto other things or start the game again. Collar holds are very useful and when rehearsed, the dog will recognize the cues of collar pressure and can learn to succumb to a restrained sit. When the cues are easily recognized by the dog, it is easier for you to get the it under control. You don't want your dog to rehearse aggressing so this is a way to interrupt and redirect all aggressive behaviour. Practice your plan using play!

A rule of thumb, if you want your dog to calm down, you must calm down. If the dog gets excited, you get still. It brings the dog's energy down, or at the very least doesn't amp it up. However, we are human and we can't always preform well under stressful situations. If you find that are not capable of staying calm, practice calling the dog in your panicked voice when there are no triggers present. Use that loud voice and abrupt body language that you know you will use in the case of an aggressive display. Practice getting your dog to follow your change in direction, so you are getting the dog to react to your voice and body language, not just the leash. Ideally, the leash should be kept loose, but also rehearse you tight leash handling because that may be the grip you will use in case of emergency. Keep in mind though, constant leash corrections and constant pressure on the leash escalate aggressive behaviour because they activate the dogs natural resistance reflex. Nonetheless, you can teach the dog that your worried voice and tight leash doesn't mean anything bad is about to happen and that a sudden change in direction is a game. Desensitize your dog to your physical stress cues and if by chance you can't remain calm in the face of a potentially bad situation, at least you won't escalate the aggression by adding strange new body language into the mix. Practice all your leash handling skills when you don't need them, so they will be automatic when you do need them!